How to Get a Cat to Use a New Cat Tree (2026 Step-by-Step Guide)

📌 Why Your Cat Ignores the New Cat Tree (and What That Means)

That new tower rarely smells neutral. Manufacturing residues, glue, packaging, and even other cats from the store can cling to the fabric and sisal. A cat that sniffs and backs away may be reading those scents as a warning, not an invitation.

Other common reasons a cat ignores a new tree:

• Unsteady base — any wobble makes a cat doubt the whole structure.
• Wrong location — too busy, too noisy, or too isolated from household activity.
• Unappealing texture — slick faux fur, scratchy carpet, or unsteady perch pads.
• Too much pressure — forcing your cat onto a platform can create negative associations.

Curious cats approach slowly, sniff the base, paw at the sisal, and may climb within a day or two. Stressed cats show flattened ears, a low posture, tail flicks, wide eyes, or leave the room when the tree is in view.

Placing the tree in a busy hallway or next to a noisy appliance often backfires because cats want a secure vantage point, not an ambush zone. Let her investigate at her own pace.

🔑 How to Set Up the New Cat Tree in the Right Location

Location matters more than the tree’s design. Cats like to survey their territory, so a spot with a window view is ideal — birds, squirrels, and passing cars give them mental stimulation. If your cat is social, place the tree near the couch or desk where you spend time. For a timid cat, tuck it close to a familiar hiding spot, like behind a chair or next to a bookshelf.

Next, check stability before your cat ever touches it. A wobbly platform can make a cat distrust the tree for weeks. Push gently on each tier and tighten any loose bolts. If the tree is tall, use the included wall anchor or a furniture strap to secure it.

Then watch your cat’s entry point — older cats and kittens may need a lower perch or a small step stool next to the base to make the first climb feel safe.

Finally, keep the tree away from things that spike a cat’s stress. Avoid these three spots:

• Noisy appliances — washers, dryers, or dishwashers that rumble mid-cycle.
• Litter box zones — cats don’t like resting right next to their toilet.
• Front door traffic — sudden visitors or delivery knocks can make the area feel unpredictable.

A quiet, stable perch near a window and your daily routine gives your cat the best reason to climb up and stay.

📌 Use Scent Familiarization to Make the Cat Tree Feel Safe

Your cat trusts what smells like home. A brand-new cat tree often carries factory odors, glue, or even the scent of other animals from the store. That’s why scent familiarization is one of the fastest ways to turn it from suspicious furniture into a safe napping spot.

• Transfer your cat’s own scent. Rub a clean, soft cloth gently on your cat’s cheeks, chin, and the base of the tail. Then wipe that same cloth over the platforms, scratching posts, and any cubby holes. Repeat daily for three to five days. Your cat will recognize those facial pheromones as “me” and feel less threatened by the new object.
• Try a synthetic feline pheromone spray. Products like Feliway Classic mimic natural calming pheromones. Spray the tree 10–15 minutes before your cat explores it, then reapply every couple of days. Never spray it directly on your cat, and let the spray dry before the cat investigates.
• Avoid strong cleaners, perfumes, and unfamiliar animal scents. Bleach, ammonia, citrus cleaners, scented disinfectants, and even strong perfume can make a cat avoid the tree completely. Stick with unscented, pet-safe cleaners. Also keep the cat tree away from areas that smell like outdoor shoes, other pets, or a neighbor’s dog.

Let your cat’s scent build up naturally over a week or two. You’ll often see the cat start rubbing its cheeks on the posts on its own — that’s the sign it now owns the space.

📌 Positive Reinforcement: Treats, Toys, and Play on the Cat Tree

Your cat is far more likely to climb if the new cat tree becomes a reliable snack station. Start with high-value treats like freeze-dried chicken, salmon flakes, or a tiny smear of tuna paste. Place one or two on the lowest platform and walk away. Let your cat discover them on her own.

Once she’s comfortable eating down low, move treats a few inches higher or stuff a small food puzzle such as a mini Kong or a lick mat with wet food. A stuffed puzzle keeps her paws busy and builds a positive association with staying on the tree.

Play is an even stronger motivator for many cats. Drag a wand toy slowly across the base, then up a sisal post and onto a perch. Let your cat “catch” the toy on the tree so the platform feels like a win.

A ping-pong ball in a shallow ledge can also trigger batting and pouncing. If you use a laser pointer, always end the session by dropping a treat on a platform—never leave her chasing nothing.

Clicker training works beautifully here. Click the instant your cat touches, scratches, or even looks at the cat tree, then immediately give a treat. You can shape simple steps:

• Touch: click when a paw or nose contacts any part of the tree.
• Scratch: click when claws rake the sisal-covered post.
• Jump: click the moment all four paws land on a platform, even the lowest one.

Keep sessions under five minutes. End while your cat is still interested, and never lift or place her on a platform unless she’s already relaxed. That pressure can backfire.

📌 Step-by-Step Training Plan to Encourage Climbing and Scratching

Once the tree smells familiar and you’ve built positive associations, use this three-week plan to build climbing confidence. Go at your cat’s pace — some cats fly through these steps in days, others need an extra week or two. Short, daily repetitions beat one long session.

Week 1: Passive Exposure, No Pressure

Your only job this week is to make the tree a rewarding place to be near. No luring, no picking up, no forced placement.

• Place a few high-value treats — think freeze-dried chicken or a dab of lickable treat — on the lowest platform or at the base.
• Walk away and let your cat investigate alone. Repeat two or three times a day.
• Keep each exposure under two minutes. If your cat walks away, that’s fine. The goal is zero pressure.

Week 2: Short Guided Play and Treat Sessions

Now introduce light interaction. Use a wand toy or a crinkle ball to draw attention toward the tree — drag it along the base first, then up one post. End every session on a positive note, meaning your cat gets a treat and leaves voluntarily.

• Keep sessions to 3–5 minutes. Stop sooner if your cat loses interest.
• Reward any paw touch, sniff, or sitting on the base with a small treat and calm praise.
• Never press your cat’s paws onto a scratching surface. That builds resistance, not confidence.

Week 3: Rewarding Independent Use and Adding Scratching

Now you shift from guiding to rewarding self-initiated contact. Any independent interaction — a sniff, a scratch, climbing onto the lowest perch — earns a treat or a calm “good.” Attach a catnip or silver vine pouch to a scratching post to make that surface more appealing.

• Gradually move food upward: start with the treat bowl on the base, then the second platform, then the top perch over several days.
• Only move up one level once your cat consistently uses the previous level.
• If the tree lacks sisal rope, place a cardboard scratcher at the base as an easy starting alternative.

📌 Common Mistakes to Avoid When Introducing a New Cat Tree

Most cats reject a new tree not because they’re stubborn, but because we accidentally create pressure or fear around it. These are the four mistakes I see most often.

• Putting the tree in an isolated room. A spare bedroom or quiet hallway feels safe to us, but cats are social viewers. They want to observe household activity from a secure perch. Place the tree in a lived-in area like the living room or near a window with partial sun.
• Forcing interaction. Picking your cat up and placing them on the platform, holding them there, or scolding them for avoiding the tree teaches one thing: the tree is a trap. Let the cat approach on their own timeline. Never punish avoidance.
• Ignoring scratching preferences. Some cats scratch vertical sisal, others want horizontal cardboard or carpet. If your old tree had a horizontal scratching pad and the new one only offers vertical posts, your cat may ignore it. Watch where and how your cat scratches before buying.
• Overloading scents too early. A heavy dose of catnip or a new blanket’s unfamiliar smell can make the tree feel foreign. Go light on catnip initially, or rub a familiar blanket over the surfaces instead.

🔑 FAQ: How to Get a Cat to Use a New Cat Tree

How long does it take for a cat to use a new cat tree?

Most cats check out a new tree within a few days, but some need up to two weeks. Kittens and confident cats adapt faster. If your cat ignores it for three weeks, move the tree or change how you introduce it.

Why does my cat prefer the box over the cat tree?

Boxes smell like you and feel enclosed and safe. A new cat tree often smells like glue, cardboard, or factory packaging. Try rubbing a soft cloth on your cat’s cheeks and then wiping it on the tree. That transfers familiar scent.

Can I use catnip to attract my cat to the tree?

Yes. Sprinkle dried catnip or silvervine on the platforms and sisal posts. About 30% of cats don’t respond to catnip, though. If yours is one, use treats or a favorite toy instead.

What should I do if my cat is scared of the cat tree?

Don’t force contact. Back off and place food near the base, then gradually higher. A plug-in calming diffuser like Feliway can help. If the tree wobbles, tighten everything and move it away from noisy windows or doorways.

Should I put the new cat tree next to the old one?

Yes, placing them a few feet apart lets your cat transfer scent and confidence. But leave enough space so the new tree doesn’t block the old one’s view. Remove the old tree only after your cat uses the new one regularly.

How do I get a kitten to use a cat tree?

Kittens are easier. Drag a wand toy up the steps, toss treats on platforms, and keep sessions under five minutes. Make sure the entry points are low enough for short legs. A kitten will usually climb within a day or two.